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Few have heard of this scenic train ride through Indonesia (and it’s a bargain, too)

The train clicks in a steady rhythm, passing through various shades of green. Green rice fields turn into dense forests, while rivers glisten in the morning sun.

The green, tropical landscape is interrupted by colorful sparks of life in the form of towns and villages, where people go about their morning business – street vendors serving breakfast to commuters, women carrying fresh produce returning from the market and children gathering in their streets. red and white school uniform.

This is the view from the Argo Wilis Panoramic, a light and airy carriage on the Argo Wilis train. Running between the cities of Surabaya in East Java and Bandung in West Java, it is one of the best and cheapest train journeys in all of Southeast Asia.

In other words, Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world, home to more than 17,000 islands. Although boats and planes are usually the main means of travel between each island, in Java, trains are the best option.

Stretching 1,064 kilometers from east to west and home to more than half of Indonesia’s population – that’s 275 million people – it makes sense that the railway network is very extensive and well used.

The Argo Wilis Panoramic train sits idle at Surabaya Gubeng Station. – Josh Edwards

Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) is the country’s national railway company. Although there are limited train networks on the islands of Sumatra and Sulawesi, most of them are based in Java, connecting all major cities including Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Solo and Surabaya.

Most of these buildings were built during the Dutch colonial period, which lasted for about 350 years.

Each train has its own name and meaning.

“For example, Argo Wilis is named after a volcano that does not erupt in East Java,” explained the railway guard. “There are other trains named after volcanoes as well, as well as places with Javanese history and mythology.”

What is unique about Indonesian trains is that instead of having one carriage dedicated to “class,” every train is one of three classes — economy, executive or business.

No matter what class you are in, they are impeccably clean and comfortable, with comfortable seats, seating areas and air conditioning—necessities in the tropical heat of Indonesia. Trains are also incredibly punctual and affordable.

The Argo Wilis Panoramic trip between Surabaya and Bandung takes just under 10 hours and costs Rp 1,200,000 ($77) per person for a one-way ticket in the main carriage, and just Rp 680,000 ($43) for the entire upper train . .

Along with Argo Wilis Panoramic, there are also Argo Parahyangan Panoramic and Pangandaran Panoramic that run back and forth between Jakarta and Bandung.

View from the window of the Argo Wilis, traveling from Surabaya to Yogyakarta - Josh Edwards

View from the window of the Argo Wilis, traveling from Surabaya to Yogyakarta – Josh Edwards

The panoramic car is a bit more expensive than other train carriages, but the ticket comes with a lot of goodies. Even before boarding, passengers can start their journey in style at the station’s top lounges, which include complimentary food and drinks. On the train, hot drinks, a snack box and a main meal are served. There’s also free Wi-Fi, though, with such beautiful views, there shouldn’t be much time to scroll.

Buying tickets is easy. Like the rest of Indonesia, the railways have been quick to embrace technology, especially in the form of mobile applications. The best way to book is Traveloka or Tiket.com, two of Indonesia’s largest online travel companies. It is also possible to book tickets on KAI’s official website, but the site is only in Indonesian and only accepts Indonesian credit cards. Tickets do not need to be printed — simply scan them from your phone at the station.

The best pictures of the route

For those traveling on the Argo Wilis Panoramic who want to cut the trip short, there are several towns along the way that are worth spending a few days exploring. (If you want to stop, you will need to book your tickets at each of these locations individually.)

Among the highlights is Yogyakarta, one of the most interesting cities in Indonesia, and the only one that still has a monarchy. It is the country’s center of arts and cultural heritage, with creative industries such as silversmithing, shadow puppetry, traditional dance and batik textiles, an ancient art form that dates back 2,000 years and is thought to have originated in Java.

There’s plenty to keep visitors busy, from walking the Kraton (royal palace) to shopping for locally made arts and crafts along the famous Malioboro Street.

Of course, no visit to Yogyakarta would be complete without visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Borobudur and Prambanan.

Located on the outskirts of the city, Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple in the world, dating back to the 8th century.

Surrounded by forests and mountains, it is one of the most attractive places in Asia.

On the other side of the city, you will find Prambanan, the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia. It’s a huge site, and it’s worth visiting the smaller, quieter temples within the area, which are equally fascinating.

The row of stones at Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world. - Siripong Kaewla-iad/Moment RF/Getty Images

The row of stones at Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world. – Siripong Kaewla-iad/Moment RF/Getty Images

For more art and culture, Solo is an interesting city just an hour and a half by train from Yogyakarta. Historically the power center of Central Java, it is home to historic buildings, temples, markets and handicraft workshops. Keraton Surakarta Hadiningrat, a former royal palace, is worth a visit, as is the museum, which has a large collection of antiques and artefacts.

Solo is also one of the major centers of batik production. Along with workshops at Laweyan Batik Village, you can also browse batik goods at Pasar Klewer, a traditional market, while Pasar Triwindu is an antique hunter’s dream.

If you happen to have room for a small day trip (always good when traveling in Java), the countryside around Solo is beautiful. An hour’s drive from the city are the 15th century temples of Sukuh and Cetho, located on the slopes of Mt Lawu. Be sure to visit the nearby Jumog Waterfall for a refreshing swim to cool off from the intense heat and humidity.

If you’re heading west on the Argo Wilis Panoramic, it’s worth checking out Bandung, where the train crosses. Located at an altitude of about 768 meters above sea level, the city enjoys a mild climate, making it a nice break from other cities on the island.

Nature is everywhere you look, from the tree-lined streets to the forests and tea fields surrounding the city – there’s even a smoking volcano, Tangkuban Parahu, just an hour’s drive from the station in the city center.

Aerial view of Gedung Sate, a historical building in Bandung. - Ismail Rajo/iStockphoto/Getty Images

Aerial view of Gedung Sate, a historical building in Bandung. – Ismail Rajo/iStockphoto/Getty Images

Sometimes called the “Paris of Java,” Bandung has a distinctly European feel thanks to its many Dutch colonial and art deco buildings, many of which have been converted into trendy coffee shops and hip boutiques.

The city is a dream to eat. From street vendors and food markets to fine dining, visitors are spoiled for choice.

Whether you stop or go all the way, the Argo Wilis Panoramic is the best way to take in the diverse, often stunning Java landscape.

“The trains are probably one of the best things about Java,” said one passenger, a British woman in her 60s who takes the slow cross-island route with her husband.

“It’s a crime to take a plane and miss all of this,” he said, waving a hand to the large window as the train rounded another bend, revealing long rice paddies fringed by breezy palm trees.

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